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Feb '13

Day #3 For My Problem

This may not look like the most creative way to spend one’s hooking time but, as I have said many times, every loop is important and you have to put them all in before you are done. Even though I am now on day 3 of my new every day regimen of working on the Problem Persian, I still am not ready to dive in to the difficult parts where one has to do too much thinking.

Still, one has to do some thinking on every section.  On today’s straight shot, I have moved around to the other side of the rug from where I was working yesterday.  Instead of picking up my hooking with the continuation of the last 2 rows of dark green background, I prefer to move over to the right and hook back to the left where those green rows ended.  Why?  Because I hook better from right to left than I do from left to right.  While my orbiter could rotate so that those green tails were set up for a right to left continuation, I also hook better working on the naked side as opposed to hooking over rows. This configuration is comfortable –

This configuration would not be comfortable as one has to cantilever over loops to get to the appropriate ditch.  I can do it but avoid it unless I have to.  I will also point out, to those people who are frustrated about the uniformity of their loops, that this over the top method makes it a bit harder to get even loops as one can’t see how the new loop measures up to the old one sitting next to it.

When working from the naked side, it is much easier to match the new loop height against the old – nothing gets in the way.  After finishing this stretch of the border, it was time to turn the corner.

But, where is the new line supposed to be?  Since the old black border line was drawn to match the black design line, the old border line will no longer work.  The red line shows what it took to straighten out the pattern design at this spot.  It is off by over and inch.  If left unaltered, the red wavy lines would actually be on the very edge of the rug.  I want at least a few rows of background around all of the motifs.  Because much of what I am doing with this rug comes about by matching it to the one good side I was working on yesterday, I had to go back to that side to figure out my strategy.

Here is the mirror image of that wavy line, on the opposite side of the rug.  I simply undid a little bit of it to find out the number of ditches between the green “point” of the design and the first line of the background.  The edge row of red background is in the 6th ditch over from the lime green point.

Armed with that information, I went back over to the vacant side and found that 6th ditch away from the red point where a lime green point will eventually go.  I put in one red row of hooking as my base line.  From there, other rows forming the background can be added, each one at the exact same spot or ditch as it’s counter part on the other sides.  The 2nd row (orangy red), for example, is 2 threads over from the red row.  I do that on all four sides.  Sometimes I skip two threads and sometimes I skip 3 threads between rows – it takes that combination to make the rug look right.  That is due to the way the #8 works with the monk’s.  If I skipped 3 threads between every row it would be too loose.  If I only skipped two threads between every row it would be too tight.  So, with each border section, I remind myself as to what worked before then slavishly follow it on the new section of the border.  With the border edge in, I can now go back and start hooking the wavy line … when I am ready for something that takes a little more concentration.


Gene showed his process in recreating a dye recipe for a reader as well as gave the recipe.  Go to www.internetrugcamp.com/ if you would like to read all of Gene’s posts.

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