Tell Them Jane Sent You

Today’s post is about a different sort of rug hooking event that I would like to invite you to join.  Although one aspect of it is taking place in Anaheim on Monday, May 10, 2010, you can help expand it far beyond a single day or place.   It is a blood drive for my friend (and local rug hooking legend) Jane Olson. You don’t have to come to Anaheim to give blood at our drive – you can honor Jane by giving blood anywhere in the world between now and May 31.

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Few people realize, because of her busy teaching schedule, that Jane Olson has been dependent on regular blood transfusions for the past 3 years.   She always knows when her tank is getting low and goes in for a fill up when that happens.  (Although she usually asks for the blood of a handsome young man, I am not sure if her hospital staff actually meets that request.)  Nevertheless, because there is a regular supply of blood available to her, this octogenarian can maintain a rug hooking work schedule that would make a person half her age tired.  

Our goal with this blood drive is to collect many pints of blood, in her honor, that can help other people all over the globe who also depend on this special gift from others. To that end my church, Anaheim First Christian, is working with Jane’s hospital, Little Company of Mary, to sponsor a blood drive in our gym on May 10.  Every pint donated will be in honor of Jane Olson – she may not be able to give blood herself … but her many friends can.  Jane doesn’t really get anything out of this event other than the satisfaction of knowing that she, through the efforts of her friends, has been able to have a part in helping many other people who need this gift of life.

Don’t live in Anaheim?  Then give blood at any location, any time you can between now and May 31, 2010, and tell them Jane Olson sent me! (Then drop me an email so that I can add your name to the list of participants.)

You can’t give blood?  Find someone who can! Local rug hookers who are sending spouses, children and friends in to give blood as their proxies have already notified me about their plans. We will happily accept anyone’s donation.  Everyone is welcome to participate.

What happens if I try to give and they won’t accept me that day? Write me any way!  You can still honor Jane even if your iron count is low on that day.

Some of the local rug hookers, who know they can’t give blood, have already told me they will do anything they can that day to help.  In fact, more have volunteered than we can use.  So, logically, we have decided to make another room in the church available for hooking on that day.  It may be the first Blood Drive/Hook In event in history.

If you would help me promote this event, I would appreciate it.  I already have some area coordinators in some of the regions where Jane regularly teaches:

Donna Lux – TX

Teresas Heinze – TX

Sue Breeding  – KS

Eda Lee Haas – WA

Thank you to anyone who can help with this event.  It will mean the world to Jane as well as give life to a needy recipient.

(If you don’t know Jane, there are posts about her on the original blog.  She has been an active teacher, designer and supplier for over 50 years.  We collaborated together  to produce The Rug Hooker’s Bible.)

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Down to a T

In a month, I will be reporting every day for 2 weeks from Australia.  I am going there to do five, daylong workshops, each with a mini dye class.  Miriam Miller, from the Narrawilly Farm Rug Retreat, near Milton, New South Wales, Australia, will be my hostess.

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The Big event of the visit will be a 2 day Hook-In and Public Exhibition, attended by rug hookers from all over Australia. Miriam just sent me the poster and I thought you would enjoy seeing it. While the trip, up to this time, has seemed a long way off in the future … it suddenly seems much closer!  Consequently, I am trying to get everything finished up this week for that trip.

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As students will be coming and going, my workshop on 3-D prodded flowers will be offered three different times times.

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Fortunately, all 30 of those patterns were drawn a week ago.

My second workshop, Improving Your Technique, will utilize the Fowl Mood pattern.  I still have a bit of wool to put together for some of those students.

My greatest challenge will be for the 5th workshop:  Making a Rug in 12 Hours. That may be a bit of a bit of a challenge for me as my prototype was made with wool fabric.  Miriam tells me to expect several students who’ll come to that workshop prepared to hook with T-shirts.

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As I have not done much work with T-shirts, my spare time this week will been spent playing around with that fabric.  I am not overly wild about the colors in this piece but am happy to simply use up what I could find for free.  I do like the way the finished product looks, although I still prefer wool.

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They All are Winners

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Rug hookers were represented on the red carpet Sunday night when our own Carrie B. attended the Oscars with her daughter and nominated (Sound: Star Trek) son-in-law.  With those Hollywood sunglasses, she looked ready to go the day before at the First Saturday Hook – In at the Harbor House.

It is a shame that the academy does not have a category for hooked rugs, as these rugs from Saturday’s hook-in would surely be contenders.

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It has been fun watching this rug go from design concept to work in progress. It will probably be done by our next hook-in … or the one after that.

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I saw this rug for the first time on Saturday.  It is a very big rug.

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Susan is almost done with this rug as well.  Although it is designed as big “bittersweet” blooms, she hooked it more like pomegranates because she prefers those colors.

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One of the nice things about being located in a resort area is that we have surprise visitors all the time.  Kathleen Harwood, from PA, stopped in this weekend with this rug of her own design.  Based on quilting motifs, this 6 foot runner is about ¼ done.

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This is only a small sampling of the rugs this group brought on Saturday – they were all winners.

Parakeet Update:

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Here is a nest box of 6 recently hatched parakeets.   I tried to shoot a second nest box, but mother hen would not cooperate – which is fine as it is more important for her to tend to business than pose for the camera.  A third box has 8 un-hatched eggs.

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Another Version

Elizabeth M. just sent me this very different take on Double Cross.

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Hi Gene,

I wanted to show you my double cross rug as it stands till now. Unfortunately the colours don’t show up, although they do in the original photo. When I first saw the double cross pattern, it didn’t particularly inspire me, but when I saw your outlining with the transitional wool, I fell in love with it. I copied that part, then outlined it with a cream so that it would stand out more. Although you can’t tell in the picture, the rest is done using the  marbleized dyeing (red, navy and light blue) ( purple, blue/purple , and a grey plaid) I think it gives it a sort of “fake” stained glass look which I quite like. When it’s complete I’m going to try your whipping technique. I think I’ll call it “Shepherd’s Inspiration” It’s done on the 2×2 monks cloth, so is a pretty good size, and will have a place of honour on our bedroom floor.

This is my first attempt at a size 8 cut, and using your 6mm hook, has made it like pulling butter…..no discomfort at all…and I hooked for hours at a time during the Olympics. (although I must admit my hand was shaking as I hooked during the end of the hockey game).   Elizabeth M

Unfortunately, I could not get Elizabeth’s  photo to print any bigger than it shows on the screen.  In my iphotos, where I downloaded this photo, I was able to get a better look and the colors are much more pronounced than this photo shows.  I really like the effect of the transitional wool as outline, which is reinforced by the beige.  You would never know it was the same technique I used.  Hopefully, when she is all done, we can get a bigger photo.

Elizabeth- It looks great.  Your use of color is most effective.   Glad you like the hook.  Gene

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Videos On Line

As you probably know, I recently started a subscription site called the Internet Rug Camp.  www.geneshepherd.com/rugcamp/ That site differs from this one in that it does have a longer, expanded blog (5 days a week), free pattern downloads 4-5 times a year and a growing library of instructional videos that can be accessed by the viewer 24/7.

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(While the videos can be watched on your regular computer screen, I usually just run a cable to my TV so I can get that “wide screen” look!)

Two or three new videos are added every month, with a minimum of 30 teaching videos being available during the first 12 months of operation.  (There are some others videos on the site that would be particularly interesting to bird lovers.)  Once on line, the videos stay there so that the IRgCamper can access them whenever they want, as often as they want.  After the first 7 weeks of operation, these are the videos that are available for viewing on the Internet Rug Camp:

Drawing the Double Cross Pattern: This session covers different ways to draw this pattern.

Corners and Colors:  Double Cross Rug (This rug is all about corner technique and the choice of the right colors.)

Transitional Dyeing: You are invited to come into my dye kitchen as I create great transitional pieces, without using any dye.

Marbleized Wool: Dyeing without dye!

Persian, Part 1: Picking Your Colors: I discuss my thought process for choosing colors for this project. (This rug was the subject of yesterday’s post.)

Persian, Part 2:  Correcting a Pattern – Have you ever gotten a pattern that slipped while being drawn?  On this video I detail the way I had to “troubleshoot” so that the rug would end up square. (There will be at least 2 more videos on this rug.)

Alternate Loop/Bead Stitch: This two-color technique is a great way to add some pizazz to a hooked project.

Whipping the Edge of a Rectangle Rug (One of the most frequent topics I am asked to address.)

(Printed scripts of each video are available for the hearing impaired.)

The site is called an Internet Rug Camp, not because everyone is doing the same thing at one time, but because it is an Internet site with both printed and audiovisual instruction.  The comment section allows for a general class discussion amongst those campers who want to ask or answer questions.  By far, most of the people on the IRgC never say anything!  Since all information is permanently categorized on the site, there is no beginning or ending time.  Campers can start one free pattern long after a 2nd or 3rd pattern is on the site.  With video support geared to many of the projects I am doing, the IRgC provides students with an opportunity to progress at whatever speed is convenient for them.  I started this site because I know many do not have the ability to study with a teacher or hook with a group. If you have questions about the site, feel free to drop me a note.

A 12-month subscription to the Internet Rug Camp costs $36.  You can register via Pay Pal at any time.  For those who do not use Pay Pal, I will take personal checks.  By the way, we always have room for one more!

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Persian Update

With all my recent hooking focus being directed to the Double Cross pattern, there has not been much time for any other hooking pursuits.  However, with whipping coming to an end on that project (I will finish at the Thursday night hook-in) I am ready to go back to the ongoing Persian Project.

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This is a work in progress that I go back to as time permits. It has some special “needs” as the pattern slipped while being drawn.  Since I frequently run into students that wind up in the same boat, for whatever reason, it seems as though this topic is a good one for us to consider.  (I actually am doing a multi-part video series on this rug on the Internet Rug Camp.)

Here is one good tip when trying to get repeat motif  centered and lined up -

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You may notice that, contrary to my normal practice of working from the inside out, that there are spots where I seem to be working from the outside in.  There are 2 reasons for doing this:

1. When something is supposed to be “framed” with an equal amount of fill, I like to put in that frame first, thereby guaranteeing the fill will be equal.

2.  In this case, as the top “doo dah” is drawn off center (remember, the pattern slipped) once the same amount of “concentric” fill is put in on all of the “sides” the “doo dah,” there is only one place left for that motif to go.  By hooking all the spots like this, it guarantees, regardless of how the pattern is drawn, that all the motifs will be in alignment with each other.

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This is an approach I use all the time as evidenced by this example.  Three rows of fill were put in each corner, first, then, at the point of the 4th row, I set the point of the green leaf.  That way, I know all of my points are in the same exact spot, regardless of how the pattern is drawn.

Today on the Internet Rug Camp:

Persian, Part 2: Correcting a pattern that slips.

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More To Report

Here is another report from someone hooking a version of the Double Cross pattern -

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From Genejoan:

Gene, Thanks for the timely post on dying yarn.  I had bought yarn I thought would match my rug but it was pinkish burgundy instead of maroon.  I followed your suggestions and threw it in the pot with a smidge of black and got a great color for the whipping.

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She continues -

My Double Cross rug also has shows a picture of my Easter eggs which I did yesterday.  I needed a break from all the black in my double cross. Thanks for encouraging all of us in this project.  Genejoan

Genejoan – As I am very partial to stripes, it is not surprising that I like the way you created this dark background for the brighter motifs.  Sometimes, the simplest of techniques produce the most striking results.  The rug has a very appealing look to it.  Even if you got tired of hooking the black, I think it was worth it.  And, by the way, I love the eggs.

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Here is an extremely fun rendition of the Double Cross pattern sent in by Sharon.

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Gene:
I’m finally finished the hooking of my Double Cross pillow.   It looks quite different than I had originally envisioned. I just picked colours as I went from fabrics I had - mostly broadcloth and similar fabrics of mixed fibres and cotton.

Thanks for getting me doing something I don’t usually do.  I am ready to whip the edges which I don’t usually do as most of my pieces end up as wall hangings or cushions or bags.  Sharon

Sharon – You have inspired me.  I have been saving a pillow pattern like this to work with an assortment of different fabrics other than wool.  Since I am heading into mixed fiber territory soon (Australia) I feel like I need to “mix up” my hooking some before getting there.  I like the playfulness of your piece very much.  Looks like I need to go find the rotary cutter and get to work!  GRS

Today on the Internet Rug Camp

March Madness Begins


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Stretching a Pattern on the Frame

Lawanna wrote in asking this question -

Hi, Gene,  How does one properly position the backing onto the frame? I like a very tight or taut hooking surface. Do I need to worry about distortion of the pattern in the pulling and fitting process? Do the lines on a pattern need to appear straight? Does the pulling and fitting have to be done evenly throughout the hooking process? If so, how does one ensure this since the pattern has to be taken off and refitted many times during the hooking process?

Lawanna - Using some photos from the Rug Hooker’s Bible, I’ll answer your questions –

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1.  Always put you pattern on “square” – the north and south threads of the backing ought to run parallel to the north and south sections of the frame.

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2.  Never put your pattern on at a diagonal.

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3.  Never stretch your pattern lines out of shape.  The easiest place to see if they are stretched “straight” is by looking at the outside edge lines of the pattern.  When not working on a section with those lines, look at the design motif in the middle of the frame and check to see that it is not distorted.

When one always puts the pattern on “square” … and never stretches it out of shape … and always pulls it to about the same general tension, it will help the pattern to stay in shape.

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Whipped Into Shape

After drying all night, my hand dyed yarn was dry and ready Wednesday morning, to be a part of the whipping process for the Double Cross runner.   (The newest video on the IRgC is about whipping the edge of a rug.  I also sell a CD in the store.  Both go into great detail on the process.)   Since some related questions have come up over the past few days, today’s post seems to be the right time to answer them.

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I use Dorr’s cotton rug tape. Yes, it does seem a bit stiff when coming off the bolt.  However, it will soften up significantly if, after cutting enough to go all the way around the rug, the tape is twisted and “abused” just a bit.  Holding a foot long section between each hand, I rotate the tape – the same motion I used to use when rotating the pedals of my upturned bicycle when adjusting the chain.  It makes me wonder if there isn’t some sort of sizing in the pristine tape.  By “twisting” or working it as described, the tape becomes much more supple. White is my frequent choice as I often write the particulars of pattern, designer, hooker and date on the actual tape after I have everything whipped and secured.

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I whip the rug face down, using a double strand of wool yarn.  (I never use acrylic yarn – it just seems wrong to me to put that on a wool rug and I don’t think acrylic holds up as well as the wool.)

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Although I used to choose tapes in colors that matched the whipping, I finally stopped worrying about that since I whip in such a way that no one ever sees the tape unless the rug is turned over.  This close up shot was taken of the rug so that you can see that nothing extra shows between whipping and loop, or through the whipping.  Using the double strand of yarn, as I whip through every occupied hole of the hooked edge (and an extra hole now and then if I think it is needed to cover) really covers everything that needs to be hid.

Are there other ways to do this?  Of course, as evidenced by this note from Cheryl.

Hi Gene,  I was taught to finish rugs in a way that has more of a herringbone look and was wondering if there are pros and cons to that method.  I noticed that your video example showed a more straightforward method – placing each loop-around very close to each other.  The theory behind the herringbone-ish method is that you won’t see backing spaces between each loop-around of the yarn.

The method I’m talking about:  make two yarn loops on backing, go back between 1st and 2nd loop (the loops have been placed a skosh further apart) and make a loop there.  The yarn will slightly cross back and then forward on the next loop.  Hope I’m describing this well.  So once those first two loops are made, it’s a loop forward and a loop backward, loop forward, loop backward.

Are there any pros or cons to that method?  Thanks so much, Cheryl

Cheryl – I am still trying to visualize this method and would appreciate a good close up.  You are right; my method is much more straightforward than others I have seen, as I don’t really want to spend time doing anything that isn’t essential.  My end goal is to produce a completely whipped edge that sits below the height of the loop so that no foot traffic ever wears it (the whipped edge) down.  I whip in such a way that no backing shows at the hooked row edge or between the turns of the yarn.  On occasion, I have, particularly on very wide cuts, put the needle through a hole further into the hooked area if I thought it was needed – sort of a “fingered” approach that can cover an odd open spot of backing.  But, that is unusual.  If I want the yarn edge to show, I whip with a contrasting color.   If I do not want it to show, I try to match the color of the last row hooked.  I don’t like methods of whipping floor rugs, even when they are attractive ones, which cause the edge to stick up so that the edge will be walked on.  The loops of the rug, collectively, are far more durable than an edge that is higher than the rug.  That is also the reason why I don’t cover the edge with plain fabric.  Any process that protects the edge in such a way as to cover all signs of the backing works for me.  I have had several rugs down now for many years, all with this method and all the whipped edges still look like new.

People also ask me if it is wise to sew the rug tape on before beginning to hook, so that, when completed, the tape can just be folded over to make a tape-covered edge.   You will never find me doing that for 2 reasons;

1.  I would hate loosing the option of ending before the pattern edge or expanding the rug past that edge once in to the hooking process.  With a sewn tape edge already in place, the artist must hook over to that line.  Often, I change my mind, particularly if adding one extra row or leaving off one extra row will allow me to end a rug with out having to fill in some odd size.

2.  I don’t think a tape edge provides as strong an edge as a good yarn does.

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All that said, if you are happy with your method, that is all you have to worry about.

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